Feminine and Purple photoshoot in Amsterdam

I recently met a good friend who is also a photographer among other things and she took a few pictures. More updates to follow shortly:)

Troubles in Cyprus aka (former Tax haven) paradise

As I was flying back from Portland to Larnaca in about two days I heard about the Cyprus bank crisis in a Oregonian newspaper, CNN, Dutch news channel, Financial Times, Romanian English News paper, my MSN account's news banners, having in mind I barely ever watch TV unless is on at the airport and only scan newspapers on flights.
The news is definitely out, Cyprus is in a deep freaking s.... mess.
The origin of the crisis is very simple. Face Cyprus with Lebanon on the back and then turn left.
Bingo!
Greece of course.
If you are curious, a simple if a bit more detailed explanation here
Bottom line is there was too much Russian money to be invested and Cypriot bankers were playing Monopoly like Teddy Ruxpin.
And now what? What will you do if your bank asks you for 7-10% of your savings in order to pay for their and the Government not so wise decisions.
You won't be happy, right. No one is.
I am only losing EUR200 and am moderately pissed off, but people have much bigger problems, pension, mortgages, salaries not being paid.
Last Thursday afternoon the banks finally reopened and queues were promptly formed in front of my local Laiki and Bank of Cyprus

This morning after 3 day weekend, it looked like this downtown:

Losing thrust in the banking system people want to get their money out, understandably. 

My online banking doesn't work. ATM have daily limits and I was just asked to pay school fees in cash.

I was a bit surprised that the Russians refused to bail Cyprus out, although it makes total Business sense.

 The small VIP airport was packed with private jets on Thursday with the big guys from Moscow coming to collect their cash in suitcases. 

Some people say Russia will cease using Cyprus as a tax haven all together. I am not so pessimistic. 

We all hope the oil starts flowing soon. And there is still the Tourism. 

Meanwhile, let's just hope that they implement all the measures fast and efficient and move on. 

And first rule in Monopoly when facing Cyprus with Beirut on the back, remember not to turn left. Ever again. 

Don't Grow Up, It's a Trap

Copyright True Activist

I found this photo the other day and it made me think.
Eerie thought. Is it really a trap?
Better play it safe. By not growing up, I mean ;)

Mazotos, Cyprus

Since it has been a while. First the "old news". Decided to stay in Cyprus/Moscow and Brussels is no longer an option.
Life in Cyprus has evolved. As paradise-like as it is, there are down sides of moving to a completely new country. That's why most people don't. But as I mentioned before I am not as mature as most people.
Kidding.
Talking about grown-up business, try this. I have pretty much successfully relocated myself and two 2,5 years old kiddies and arranged anything from a pick-up van from the airport, to buying a car, finding a home, daycare, register in various institutions etc, even had a job interview the other day. As much as hubs wants to help, he is only here 2 days a week and for the rest it's all on me. The flat tires, the eye infections, the pigeon problems, the ants invasions, the colds, the flu, etc. etc.
After this relocation I can positively say that I can move pretty much anywhere in the world, as long as it's sort of a safe place, and even that's relative.
We are now expats nearly 7 years, first in the USA, then Russia and now Cyprus. Before that I was in the Netherlands for nearly 5 years.
I am starting to understand the full account of the term Third Culture Child. Since I am on a mission to avoid growing up I mean...

Jokes aside, it's rather interesting how differently we live nowadays in the Global village. For instance how accessible travel has become. Or moving to a completely new country. It's something incomprehensible for my parent's generation. In fact they often assume that one day we will back and it will all be like before. Only there is no "like before". Even if we are back in Holland, things will be diffrent. Besides the obvious re-patriation galore that will ensue, I am and will always feel a foreigner, in Holland.  Or any other place on the planet. I have heard people call this the "expat trap". In fact it's the expat liberation. The only trap is growing up;)

And about life in Cyprus.

It's all about the green fields, the sea and the village life to me.

Mazotos on a "cold day" 15C, Cyprus

For a city-lover as I am and especially after living downtown megapolis Moscow, it's a tiny little bit of difference.

Never thought that the sight of herd of sheep on a stroll every morning can be so refreshing. I understand why they recommend sheep counting before bed. Pure meditation effect.

Mazotos, Cyprus

Mazotos, Cyprus

Besides the sheep, more positivism about Cyprus pours from the sheer fact that it's 20 C in February! In February. Once again, in February. I use sun lotion every day.

Sometimes I wonder why we don't all pack up our stuff and move ourselves and our big cities and big city lives and move to more favorable climate destinations.

You know why? Because we are adults.

And btw, please don't rush. You will scare my sheep.... Seriously.

As much as I hate that pompous commercial charade called Valentine's day, hubs and I "celebrated" outside with late lunch sipping rose, eating fresh salad and I got Sunburned. Sunburned Ladies and Gents. While it was balmy -12 C in Moscow. I really don't miss that.

Another fantastic thing lately is that my Icarus-philia got more opportunities to shine. Couple of weeks ago I flew my glider 3 times in one day from the site near Limassol. A day to remember. I am extremely lucky to have found a great flying coach and eternally grateful.

Paraglding at Currium 

Paragliding Kourion Beach

I was considering going back to the drop-zone for another skydiving experience but after 3 jumps I am still not very sure I like it all that much. I am now swimming 3 times a week, signed up in another half a marathon in two weeks time (oups, who thought that was a good idea??) and besides I need to start preparing for climbing Mt Elbrus this summer. And the kite-surfing season starts soon... 

 Otherwise I went on to catch up on cities and culture in London and Istanbul.

 London is like the Queen. Timeless.

Istanbul is ... how to put this.... exotic.

First time I went there I hate it, second time I was giving it the benefit of the doubt, and this last time I thought I better give up on trying to rationalize how I feel about it. It's a bit of a hot mess, densely populated by shouting, yelling crowds of men of all ages who do not shower daily. But it's also a hub of infectious energy, most amazing architecture, fantastic food and great hospitality. Will be back.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul

Street market, Istanbul

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Cisterns, Istanbul

I am back

Yay! I am back. My domain expired since forgot to renew my new credit card info.
News to follow soon. Now off to Nicosia to meet some new friends..

Skydiving

 Living in Cyprus turned out to have an unexpected great benefit. The Skydiving Drop Zone (DZ) base is only 15 min drive away from home.

Few weeks ago I learned about it by chance which I now believe was destiny. I called the guys and asked what is the best way for me to try skydiving ideally without being strapped to someone else. I always thought tandems are for sissies ;) Opposite to common believe you don't need to do tandems in order to learn paragliding or skydiving, not at all.

Anyway, turned out that I could get a basic training and one static line jump in a weekend so I naturally signed up. Few weeks later I was slightly surprised when receiving a message that training is to start. Oh, sh...t now I really have to do it ;) 

I pep-talked myself into it like this. When you have small children sometimes it's really nice to take a little break and do something different just for yourself. Jumping off planes certainly must qualify.Saturday went on in theory and some practical exercises, Sunday morning 8 am I was there geared up and ready to take a leap. 

Strange thoughts pass trough your mind when you are in a small aircraft with a missing door and the familiar scenery gets smaller and smaller down under. 

All of a sudden all worries, fatigue, little problems, unpleasant thoughts all go away. By the sheer feeling of fear the mind gets so purified that only real essential things appear on the surface.
Me and the other chick on the course were last to jump, not sure why, since I wanted to be first. By being the last one to jump you have many chances to witness the pre- first jump agony. 

Before I knew I was sitting at the door with my feet down 4000 feet of open space. Right at that moment I was not even scared, but experienced some sort mix of stage fright and impatience. I just wanted it to start and be over.

And so I jumped.
Next thing as I felt the plane kept flying without me, a feeling a extreme panic took over. 

I have never felt so out of control ever before. Those 4 seconds in which I was practically in a state of free fall, since you don't feel the static line, were so extreme and so full of emotions as if it was 4 hours or even 4 days bottled up in a small box of time. 

Then the parachute opened.
What a Relief. 

As you learn at the training you need to always ask yourself is the parachute "big" and regtangular". It was big all right, but not really rectangular. One of the tips was closed and I used all my power to spread the lines so that it opens up. Another sigh of relief.

 Otherwise same idea as a paragldider with recards to controling it. The only one and pretty big diffrence is that a parashute is mean to fall, while a glider is there to allow you to stay in the air. In that respect skydiving is a fairly short experience. 

I had a text book landing, which felt good. The adrenaline kept me in a small cushion of joy for a few hours. And then there was a giant crash, so I had to go to bed in the afternoon. 

I would rate the experience 10 out of 10: amazing pure pleasure, tremedous feeling of victory, purifying and enriching, plain joy of life. 

In comparison to paragliding:

1. skydiving it's shorter and more intense 

2. paraglding is far more technical and takes much longer to learn as there are a lot more factors to consider. Great benefit for skydiving if you are short on time

3. the fear factor is far greater in skydiving
4. the adrenaline rush is much more in skydiving

5. skydiving is overall less espensive, since you don't need to buy your own gear

6. the skydiving population seems generally younger and there seem to be more women than in paragliding

7. skydiving is less time-consuming sport overall, with average jump taking no more than 30 min from the moment the plane takes off. 

8. both are very weather dependant sports

9. the kick you get from skydiving is more, but you don't have the feeling of flying and controlling your flight as much, so all in they are very diffrent experiences and I can't say the one is better than the other. 

10. I would do it again. In fact maybe tomorrow!
--------------------------------
OK, so I wrote a draft of this post last week. Over the weekend I went back to the DZ and jumped two more times and am thinking of doing it again in the future. Let's see how that goes. 

Relocation to Belgium?

The good thing about this blog is the fact that very few people know about it. I barely mentioned it to a few friends. If someone is really keen on finding it, they can and I don't mind. I just don't want to think about what so and so would be thinking if I post these or that. I purposely avoid talking about friends, family or kids and don't share much personal information. From what I see from the stats, it's mostly visited by people I don't know. Which is why I can actually talk about this subject.
Belgium that is.
The situation is as follows. Right in this moment there are two offers on the table and they are both very good. The question is which one would hubs (we) take. One is to stay in Cyprus/Moscow for another 1,5 year. The other is to move to Brussels for at least 3 years. It should be decided in the next few days, and frankly, I am eating my nails figuratively speaking.

Place de Bruckere, Brussels. View from the hotel

Since the Belgium offer came we went there to see how life there would be at a so-called orientation trip. In a week time we toured 7 schools, visited 10 rental homes all over the country, met the future boss and colleagues and over all did the "homework". Good visit, that's why the choice is so tough. Of course Belgium has a big advantage for reuniting us again, as if we stay in the current set up I am alone with the kids at least 4 days a week with hubs working in Moscow. Decisions, Decisions...
Belgium.
Since the country isn't and hubs job would be somewhere in the middle we could live pretty much anywhere.
First step schools.
With regards to private schools, our only choice since the kids education needs to be in English, it was quite an entertaining and rather useful experience.

School number one, St John's, is a typical well run American type of private school. Great facilities, state of the art technologies, big campus, yet nice and cosy atmosphere. One of our final choices, also for the fact that they have a dual language program English and French as of 3, something the other schools shy away from. Pleasant tour with the school rep, the only that asked a lot of questions about the kids and even took notes. Draw back one, location in the midst of the worse traffic jams. Draw back two, since they had a winter bazaar organized by the American Women's Club, we wanted to get acquainted and ended up in cafeteria. Food choice was as follows: fries, burgers, fatty turkey sandwich, even fattier con carne, what is this? Promotion of obesity. Not all things coming from America are good..

Next, International School of Brussels, ISB, promptly renamed the International Bullshit School. In the first two minutes of being given the introduction I already knew there is no chance we would get the kids in there. Without asking a single question, a female school rep gave is the standard lecture in a slightly patronizing manner, mentioning how they start in September but the first day the kids are there for an hour, then two hours and then slowly  in about a week they go to the "full time" which is until 15.30 and only until 12.30 on Wednesday, some Belgium oddity. Full time not for the working mothers, that's for sure. 

But the biggest thing was "easing them for a week". Easing who? The teachers. Children are not strawberries, there is no need to treat them like they will become marmalade, really. In fact it was more than clear that that lady didn't give a s.... about our kids or if you ask me, anyone else's, or if she does, she certainly hides it tremendously well. But pass the fact the "sales agent" was inadequate. We were given "the tour"by a pleasant young man, recent graduate. Very pleasant indeed, but obviously incapable of answering any pre-school related questions. The campus is great, but the facilities for the younger kids dark, unfriendly, cheaply looking. For what they charge you would expect a whole different level of service. Overall, a definite no go.
Next, another one we liked, was St Paul's British primary, the smaller, British version on St John's but without the French. One thing I have to say about the British though, they know how to keep track of progress. Each child had their place on a large board and there were notes taken in 7 areas of development. As we entered the first room there were 5 cute young boys, washing dishes and decorating cakes in a peaceful harmony. It's a whole new world built in right there. Draw back, small, darker rooms, small and not particularly inspiring sport facilities.
Saw few more schools that worth mentioning.

European school in Mol being one, which is part of the Europea school group which was created for the children of the people working for the European Union. Big drawbag is the fact that campus is in the middle of nowhere. But what a campus! It's set in a big old forest and the playground looked like a fairytale on a sunny autumn day. The girls class would pretty much be a mini EU, children from everywhere. Tuition is by far the cheapest, but would have meant us living in the Belgium countryside to fastest way to make the assignment not work.

Cafetaria in the European school in Mol, Belgium

Next, Da Vinci in Antwerp. The British know good share about evaluating, giving information on regular basis, keeping a diary about what the children learned each and every day! I thought that was brilliant. As we entered the room, the kids were having boxed lunch. Why would you not arrange warm lunch in a private school is beyond me, but that's a different story. So there was a japanese girl eating sushi, an african eating couscous salad, a Russian bland macaroni, Italian eating pasta with meatballs, American eating a ham and cheese sandwich etc... Draw back, it's a city school and the campus has only a small yard. Also, we had to live in Antwerp, and that's not my cup of tea really. It's  bit of a deja vu with Amsterdam, only not quite as cosmopolitan and fun.
Antwerp International School (AIS)was pretty much the same as the ISB experience. Same lousy rep, same attitude about not giving a damn about the children from her part. She even dared to tell us that we should not live in Brussels because it's "too much". Excuse me, how many places have you lived in? Only one, only here. Oh, I thought so. Most useless tour ever.
Another hilarious episode in that school. We met a teacher and I asked how do they keep track of what the children are learning. Her immediate answer was "No scoring. They are too young." Uhh, ok, nevermind. Quite a surprise also that she was not a native English speaker, in a self-proclaimed English curriculum school.
Other two, World International School and BEPS Brussels were a no go to. First one seemed a bit too much Middle Eastern-s favorite. BEPS visit was rushed for various reason, but even if I tried to see trough that fact, no chance my kids will spend a year studying in a basement without natural light.
Next thing, housing. Houses in Belgium are cheaper and generally bigger than in the rest of Europe. But space doesn't come together with quality. For some reason people pay little to no attention to some obvious things such as the importance of a good kitchen, or built in closets, or the fact that you need light in pretty much any space.

In front of one of the houses. Belgium looks great on a sunny day:)

For a city person, there is pain in the realization that there isn't much sense in living downtown. The parks, the beautiful houses with views and the schools, even the cafes and restaurants are all outside of the center which is congested, cold and not particularly pretty with the exception of couple of streets. In that sense Brussels very much reminded me of moving to Portland or to pretty much any big city in the states. But finding a good house did not seem too much of a concern.
One thing that's a definite plus about life in Belgium is the food. They know how to eat over there, no doubt about it. Even in the simplest smallest provincial cafe you would get beautifully presented, decent quality, faintly resembling French cuisine food. Belgium beer, even for a non-beer drinker like me, is another level of quality, and wines are naturally French, so no complaints there.
Tax system is more favorable that it is in the Netherlands which is another definite benefit. It also makes car driving far cheaper, which is great as it's very needed.
Traffic congestion around Brussels seemed comparable to a Moscow rush hour, a real shame for the unofficial capital of the EU.

Relocation to Belgium?

All in all, useful visit. Life in Belgium can definitely be good. But so is life in Cyprus.
We were sitting outside of the airport in Larnaca before departure and I got sunburned. On the other hand I opened the car door in front of the hotel in Brussels and I got a refreshing splash of wind, cold and rain in my face. Just like being back in the Netherlands, or Portland, OR, or even Moscow just double the cold.
Damn, I finally live in a place where the sun is shining, do I really need to run away already?
Btw, the local private school In Cyprus called the American Academy is really solid.
Let's see which direction will the wind blow

Venice marathon 2012

I might have gotten a bit carried away when I signed up for Venice after the Berlin, Siberian Ice and Paris marathons all within 8 months. For a person that only started running year and a half ago, I could not believe my motivation and energy and I wanted to take advantage of it it as much as I could. 

Gondolas in front of the Venice casino

I picked Venice because it meant summer training, flat course, beautiful city, small race of around 8000 people. I still had the images of hot sunny days from my last visit. 

All good, only I didn’t have time to train. Work, family, travel, investing lots of time in paragliding, relocation to Cyprus. I simply didn’t have the 6 hours a week. I would miss a week here and there, then run 3 times the next, then miss a week, then go for a 20K, then again miss a week... But I signed up, not going to back out of course. 

So here I was at the start line, October 28, 2012 in the village of Stra just outside of Venice. Blistering rain storm, strong head winds and around 9 C, weather was so miserable that on any given Sunday I will just glance outside and doubtlessly decide to stay in with a cup of tea and the latest downloads of the Daily Show. 

But I was to run 42,2 km! My motivation was dropping by the minute while waiting for the bus to start line dressed in thin jacket and only knee-length running pants. The ratio man to women was again around 10 to 1 and everyone looked far more trained than at any other running event I have been to. It’s a small race and from I could see average age was higher and most runners were not first-timers. Nationality wise, probably more than 50% Italians understandably, and the rest French and small groups of all sorts of other Europeans, quite a few Americans. 

Finally we lined up, race started on time and here we go, running among beautiful old villas in small Italian villages where the rich Venetians had their summer houses. First 10 K went relatively easy with wind and rain not too bad. I was listening to music, feeling strong and having positive thoughts of all sorts. 

After that the weather nightmare unleashed. Suddenly the wind increased and heavy cold raindrops almost blinded me. I put on the sunglasses I optimistically have taken just to make sure I can see where I am going. Nose got stuffy and breathing became increasingly difficult. My hands which I forgot to cover on time got so cold and swollen that I couldn’t feel my fingers. Feet got wet with water pouring from those nice “breathing” technology holes so useful when sunny and such a mishap right there. Pure marathon joy. 

Finally there was the 21st K which is always physiologically a strong motivator for me as I am convincing myself that I am then “running back home”. It’s amazing what kind of bullshit can your brain produce and believe, isn’t it. 

I got freshen up with another running gel and I thought I just keep in going and see what happens. As already planned I decided to walk for a minute or so after each two km. 

I thought I already questioned my motivation enough, but at km 31... Ouch! There was the bridge from mainland to Venice old town. The weather was already bad enough, but there, with ocean on both sides, you can imagine the effect. I could barely make a step let alone run because the wind was beating me up from the left in seriously angry swirls. In the same time it was so cold that I didn’t feel walking was an option because I would freeze. So I kept my lousy attempts to run with a pace that barely beats walking. Several times  the wind made me jump half a meter to the side, garbage flying everywhere, unforgettable images. Remember, I am there with no marathon training and as a matter of fact I hate cold. Hard not to wonder "Why on earth am I doing this?"

Finally there was a sign 38K. Thank you, God. The course moved between the buildings at the Venice port, it was a bit less windy and I could almost feel my fingers again. Finally we were in old Venice and I knew I was almost there. Km 41k, my energy risen and I pushed the last 1,2 km in great spirits despite the liters of water that were pouring down from my wet cloths. 

There is this feeling after finishing a marathon that no other achievement ever brought me. It’s sense of accomplishment, joy, pain, relief, feeling of victory. I absolutely love it.

On the way home I was thinking as I was shivering my way trough Piazza San Marco that at any other marathon when I see people giving up I feel it’s a pity. But that day, anyone that had given up I would have absolutely understand. I still don’t know why I kept on going. Stubbornness I guess. I just visualized the end and I planned what I will do after and did not leave room for not finishing. In my mind I had finished, therefore my body had to comply. 

Another great thing about finishing is that urgent need to fill your body in with pretty much everything and the guiltless gorging that follows. Banana, apple, chocolate, pizza, pasta, salad, chicken, water, water, water, wine, water...I took a long bath and slept nice and deep. 

Now I am officially taking a break from running for a while. I will not run another marathon for at least a year or maybe more. I want to give my legs a rest and I want to focus on some other parts of my body. Good thing I still have few years to go to complete my goal of 10 marathons before turning 40 and am already ahead of schedule. 

view from the hallway of hotel Casa Dolce Venezia, great hotel in 12 century palazzo

Otherwise hard to say anything about Venice that hasn’t been already said. Venice is a living museum: old, gracious and magnificent, but also overrun by tourism and therefore lacking on service, food and bringing down the overall experience. I think the only place where you can actually have bad Italian food is Venice. There are pretty much no Italian people working in the restaurants and there are barely Italian people eating in them. I had good food only one evening, simple pasta in what was recommended to me as the best restaurant in town, Do Forni. It was really good, with a price to match the silver platters and the good service. During the day millions of MB of photos are taken at any given minute. You have to keep on leaning left and right to avoid appearing in someone’s shot. 

Venice floods October 2012

But having said all that. I arrived at sunset and as I took the Vaporetto (water bus) I was in absolute awe as we sailing. There is image after image of pure beauty. Wherever you look it’s just amazingly beautiful. Ignore the cameras and the tourist, and you enter another world.I experienced one of the regular floods that happen this time of the year. Dutifully prepared the hotel handed over huge rainboots, without which I would be walking in 40 sm of water just to walk trough the lobby. But for some reason, maybe because it happens often over there, it was rather amusing. 

I woke up early to catch the train to Milan and as we were crossing the canals I felt the magic. There were almost no people around, slightly lit, the water translucently green, few boats crossing the canals, newspaper delivery boys running around, few locals going to work. The facades of the buildings looked almost surreal. I got this shivering feeling thinking about eternity. Venice is pure time traveling experience. It’s one of the landmarks of human civilization and what a great chance to be able to see it. I felt the world will be so much sadder, uglier place without its Venice. 

The train just stopped in Verona, home of Romeo and Juliette, how could you not love Italy?

New life in Cyprus

It's Nov 1 and I just did twenty laps in the pool. That's right, in the pool. Our own. It's 28 C and sunny and it has been like that every day ever since the move. Life is good in Cyprus. In fact life is so good that I wonder why didn't I do this earlier. 

But let's get back to the start. This summer I was at some airport, don't remember which one, and I walked towards baggage claim. There was an automatic door with a sign "Point of no return". I got this taught in just a split second. That's what happened with me and Moscow. I reached the "Point of no return". I had admit to myself that I was about to walk trough that door and never come back. It was over, our Love-hate affair. Reasons are too many.

The question was where to go next and how to do it. 

I have never been to Cyprus before I thought it was  good idea to move there. I read an article in a magazine few months back about the fact that Russia bailed the island out and not the IMF and how easily accesible it is from Moscow. Obviously the weather was a big factor, and so as fact that being a former British colony English is widely spoken. It's meant to be just for a few months anyway, until the next job for hubs opens up. Then it was just a matter of organizing. I arrived in early September for 3 days and managed to find a house, great private English school for kiddies and all the other contacts for car, doctor etc. Three weeks later we moved in our new home near Larnaca and it has been a blast ever since. Sometimes I wake up in the morning, I open the window and I look at the Mediterranean and I think my life is a fairytale. 

What do I like about living in Cyprus you may ask. Everything. 

1. Lifestyle. Slow pace Mediterranean mixed up with some British influences. For instance the stores close for siesta every day and also every Wednesday afternoon and the whole day Sunday. But every day at 8 am precisely they are open and fully stocked. It's a family culture where dinner takes a few hours, everything is served on the table and food is regarded very important. The quality of life is extremely high, poverty pretty much non-existant. 
2. Weather. Dutch or NW summers are like winter in Cyprus. Enough said. 
3. The great outdoors. Run on the beach, swim whenever you want, paragliding is possible though haven't been able to go yet. Trekking, kitesurfing, even snowboarding in the winter all within short distance drive from home.  
4. People. I read somewhere that happiness is contagious. Well people here seem all infected. It's a soft macho culture, traditional and male-dominated but there is a lot of respect for the individual male or female. 
5. History. The place is so rich on history that I can dedicate a whole blog just on that. From 3 BC until Recent history with the Turkish invasion, it has been mind-blowing to discover glorious bits of the island 

Salamis ruins near Famagusta in North Cyprus

I took the below picture risking dealings with a very angry Turkish guy with a machine gun. This is the city of Famagusta, the ghost town, completely deserted after the invasion in 1974. It's heavily guarded and visiting or even taking pictures is strictly forbidden. It was surreal to be able to look at a whole city decaying abundant. 

Ghost town Famagusta, desrted after the Turkish occupation of Northern Cyprus

6. Multiculturalism. The Greek Cypriots would no like me for saying this but there is something fascinating about two so different cultures existing on the same small island. Passing the border to the Turkish part was exsiting. It's heavily guarded with big military basis on both sides. In the Turkish part, it's pretty much like Turkey, maybe just a bit more modern as there are almost no women in veils and burkas. The most fascinating sites are there, so I have been already 3 times while the average Greek Cypriot haven't visited. I don't want to go into politics, but it's a pure military occupation and I still don't understand why the EU is being so complacent. With Turkey wanting to join especially 

7. Food. It changes the world when you can buy vegetables that had been picked up from 20 km away only yesterday. They taste, feel and look better and you become a more beautiful human being consuming food that actually spoils as it is supposed to. The era of genetically engineered food hasn't reached Cyprus yet and I am extremely happy about that. 

Sea caves near Cape Greco

8. Beaches.  From Ayia Napa's resorts perfection to the sea caves at Cape Greco and even "my beach", only 800 meters down the road, I just love them all. During the tourist season night-life is also pretty happening, first person account ;)

Nissi Beach, Ayia Napa

9. Easy access to everything. Traffic jams are virtually non-existant. I love driving here even though is on the "other" side of the road. 

10. Affordability. After Moscow you can responsibly say that Cyprus is actually very cheap. That's not entirely true as it is an island and everything that needs to be imported is obviously more expensive. But I spend roughly 30% less on food comparing to Moscow, average bill in a restaurant is 50% less. 

Down sides, there are a few:

1. Seeing hubs only on the weekends and generally having the family split apart. But it's only temporary and it has been pretty ok so far. 
2. Expensive to maintain two households
3. It's a bit lonely, which is understandable since we just moved. 
4. It's a bit far and not as easy to go places. It's 4,5 h from the Netherlands for instance
5. The cities are not that pretty. Lots of badly build 80s style blocks covered with cheesy commercials. 

All in all, loving it here and now we created the opposite problem. It will be really hard to move back to the "real world". But then we can always come back on holidays, right?

Paragliding in Bali

Bali is heaven, a bit messy, dirty and disorganized version of it. But heaven, with the turquoise waters, endless surf, blue sky, authentic spicy fresh food, smily people and great conditions for coastal soaring which I took ultimate advantage of. 

My local guide, the famous Mr Ketut, was fantastic. I got to fly a total of 8 hours in only 5 days. It’s not your usual para-waiting, it’s just step out of the car, unpack, launch and fly, and fly, and fly and then fly some more. 

The only option is top-landing, so I got to do 10-12 of those. I got a bit too successful with gaining height on the last day, with about 300 or more meters and kept on creeping up. I wouldn’t say I was scared, but I was getting concerned. Ended up landing using big ears and tons of turns just to get to the right hight for the top landing. The launching field was full of spectators and I got ovations. Nice to see people genuinely caring about a complete stranger. 

One of the best things about paragliding in Bali, besides the easy smooth coastal soaring, was the time-efficiency. You only have about 4 hour slot when the wind is just good and after that went straight to the beach to catch some waves.

 Even managed to fit in a few runs, read 3 books as well. What more can one want from a holiday without kids. 

At the end of a good full of action day, sipping a drink and watching the sunset I kept on thinking how far removed Moscow seemed from all that. 

Although busy 24/7 but I came back absolutely clear-headed and ready to embrace the upcoming changes which I will talk about shortly. 

Before and after Bali we stayed with friends who are expats in Hong Kong. Fun times. I love Hong Kong and definitely wouldn’t mind living there one day. Humidity was pretty awful but I am the last person to complain about heat. I loved the energy of the big city and in the same time you feel surrounded by nature with the sea and the mountains. Flying there is possible as well. Culture-wise seemed extremely cosmopolitan, probably more than any other city I’ve been to. Put in high on my list of favorite cities next to Paris, Tokyo, New York, Miami, Vancouver, Berlin, Stockholm, Barcelona, New Orleans, Honolulu, Buenos Aires etc. etc. I don’t seem too picky, do I?:) 

I am now in Spain again flying and I could not be happier. I miss the loved ones, but the flying has been so far absolutely outstanding. Posts to follow... 

You know you have been in Moscow long enough when you: 

• know the name of the space shuttle in Gorky Park 
• are not surprised that most building might have 10 entrances but only one is left unlocked. By rule, this is usually the tinniest 
• have been 2,5 hours in a traffic jam on the way home from the airport thinking "why did I forget to use the bathroom?"
• have joined the national queue jumping competition of which Russia is undisputed World champion
• have seen a whole different level of excellence in delivering bad service
• you have involuntarily taken cold showers in August because the warm water unexplainably went missing
• are not surprised that friends will let you know they metro stop even if they know you are coming by car. Finding an address in Moscow is confusing and mistakes cost ridiculous amount of time. To avoid misunderstandings you are given the Metro stop name so that you don't end up in the other part of the city
• know what the "Brown line" means or the Purple or the Red. That's the Metro Line that follows the Garden Ring
• are not surprised that most buildings residential and commercial and businesses have an angry looking security guard or a few of them. Hiring criteria must be advanced misanthropy 
• have bribed a government official
• give presents to people just to make them do their job
• bought a fur hat, even if fake
• have had straight vodka shots with dinner, or without
• have been stuffed on caviar 
• know what "Khachapuri" means. Georgian style bread with eggs and cheese
• don't find persimmons an exotic fruit 
• own a Matreshka
• used a gipsy taxi 
• if you drive, your driving style has been significantly changed for the worse. In fact if your newly adopted driving style would be used else where, you are likely to have serious altercation with the traffic authorities
• are not surprised that people clap when the airplane lands 
• are not surprised to see people drinking beer at 10 am on a Tuesday. Beer is not considered alcohol in Russia
• have shopped extensively in supermarkets before returning to Moscow
• you have learned that you can buy anything in Russia if you have the money to afford it. Even a giraffe if you so desire
• the degree of nudity in a regular nightlife spots does not surprise you
• random people have been yelling at you for no apparent reason, including people that are supposed to sell you things
• you have seen people yelling in public at each other on regular basis
• you have opened the windows in the middle of a blasting snowstorm just to get the temperature in the apartment to go down from 35 to 25 C
• you have a humidifier 
• you have paid 20$ for a glass of average wine in an average restaurant
• you have eaten to an Indian Restaurant that doesn't have anything spicy on the menu
• when you enter a restaurant you automatically first go to the cloak room
• you wash your hands far more often then you used to
• you dread drinking tap water
• you find RT favorite hobby, USA bashing, rather amusing, and so as Moscow Times presumably "unbiased" account on political events
• you don't find it surprising to always feel "watched" and "listen to"
• no degree of cold can keep you inside the house on an average winter weekend. Otherwise you might as well stay at home for at least 6 months a year
• have literally danced until dawn
• have a double front door with at least 3 lockers 
• are not surprised  if people don't answer when you greet them
• laugh less, especially in public 
• winter sports became a routine, summer activities decreased drastically
• English is much worse
• you shop far less
• you travel far more
• for the money you pay for your flat in Moscow you would live in a mansion with a butler else where 
• know you can't run more than one errand a day
• are not surprised that paying for a small piece of furniture can take for up to an hour and requires several signatures and at the involvement of at least 3 cashiers 
• most of the Russians you know are called Masha, Lena, Nadya and Natasha, or Igor, Volodya, Misha and Sasha. You know at least 15 of each 
• have made lasagna with "tvorog" instead of ricotta cheese, pizza with sardines instead of anchovies, risotto-filles chicken with basmati rice instead, burritos without guacamole or chillies, used "lavash" instead of naan bread etc.. 
• are not surprised that commercial establishments never have change and you have established the habit to collect and cherish small bills
• know that 1000 rubles can barely cover your lunch bill in a modest restaurant
• have spend 4 hours in traffic because someone important had to go to the airport
• have become superstitious
• bought strong medicine in the pharmacy not knowing what it is and without prescription. Miraculously it worked 
• were stopped on the street while out for a jog in sports outfit and asked "why are you running, what is wrong with you?" and you knew it was not a joke
• are not surprised that a Russian man grabs your heavy bag and carries it up the stairs in the metro. You have had doors open and held, arm offered to step out of a car, you have been given huge bouquet of expensive flowers by a guest, all completely flirt-free 
• are not surprised to see a heavenly female creature in a designer outfit under the arm of ugly unshaven man with a big belly dressed in track suit 
• received expensive presents from your Russian guests that made you feel slightly uncomfortable
• shop a lot online and gladly pay for delivery knowing that otherwise you would have spend 5 hours in buying a simple iron 
• own a big heavy jacked that could take you around the arctic circle if needed
• never forget your gloves or mittens in restaurants anymore. The cold reminds you to run back and find them within seconds 
• learned how to dress warm to a degree of an expert 
• are not surprised to see women of all ages balancing on stilettos on the ice whole winter long 
• you are not surprised to see girls putting make up on Before starting a work out session
• have been to a classical concert at 150$ cheapest ticket and not-surprised to see the whole huge hall completely packed
• have seen unaccounted amount of prostitutes congregating around the bar and attacking suspecting and unsuspecting bystanders. Good news is, you can easily avoid the scene by going to another bar
• are not surprised that the average size of cloths of women between 20 and 35 is US size 4 or XS. Seemingly the whole of Moscow is on a permanent diet 
• are not surprised that the percentage of young people working out is negligibly small and you have heard hundreds of times the phrase "I am not an athlete" or "I am not a sportsman". It seems that physical education is either ignored or detested from early age unless taking a professional sportsman development path 
• are not surprised to see average Russian people in expensive designer cloths which they clearly can't afford. Saving money is not a Russian thing to do
• you are not surprised that income tax in Russia is so small comparing to Western Europe that people often earn more net income in Moscow than their counterparts in the European office. 
• have been to exotic countries after a 10 hour flight only to discover that you are surrounded by pretty much only Russian people and all signs of restaurants and menus are all written in Russian
• have seen a guy downing 5 vodka shots on the flight at 8 am 
• have been on a late flight where at least half of the passengers seem heavily intoxicated 
• have seen world class art exhibited in most random places including someone's modest 20 sq. m living room. 
• had dinner party that ended up with a breakfast at 5 am
• meet Russian celebrities on regular basis in restaurants
• have seen more Porsche Cayennes than you thought Porsche can produce 
• Have seen cars parked in the most amazing places including in parks, school yards, zebra paths, tight corners, flower gardens, theater entrances, etc. 
• Have seen cars driving on the pedestrian sidewalk at 80km/h
• Bought the most expensive berries you ever thought existed in Azbuka Vkusa
• Have seen several women with $30K designer outfits, 1000$highlights and a "cheap" 200$ manicure discussing lazily the real estate market in London in a street cafe

TBC